Installation
The Freezone CPU Cooler comes pre-assembled and filled with coolant. The entire installation procedure is covered in a 13 page printed Installation Guide that is clearly written, includes numerous color pictures, and covers all the basic steps. A video is also available on the CoolIt Systems website. All of the mounting hardware comes pre-sorted and nicely labeled in little bags.
The Freezone was designed to mount inside a standard mid-tower enclosure in place of the rear case fan (must be either a 92mm or 120mm). The main Chiller/Pump Module bolts up to the rear case fan opening via the Freezone’s 92mm fan. Since not too many mid-tower cases use 92mm fans, CoolIt Systems includes a 92mm to 120mm adapter plate. You might wonder why they didn’t just use a 120mm fan in the first place but I suspect the slightly smaller size may allow a little more clearance and provide greater compatibility.
Note: In many cases, the Freezone Chiller/Pump Module will mount very close to the left side panel. Check your particular case to insure there are not any latches or side-mounted fan/ducts that would interfere with the Freezone and prevent installing/closing the side panel. The 120mm adapter plate is not symmetrical, so the final position of the Chiller/Pump Module can be adjusted a little by rotating the adapter plate at mounting.
There are five basic steps to installing the Freezone CPU Cooler:
- Prepare the case for installation:
- Remove the existing rear case fan
- Remove the existing CPU cooler and retention frame
- Install the 120mm fan adapter plate (only if your case has a 120mm rear fan opening)
- Install the Fluid Heat Exchanger (CPU waterblock)
- Mount the Chiller/Pump Module
- Mount the Thermal Control Module
- Connect the Cables
Once you have confirmed your case will accommodate the Freezone system, the actual preparation is quite straightforward.
Remove the existing rear case fan. To work properly, the rear fan opening must be either 92mm or 120mm; an 80mm rear case fan opening will not work. You may also elect to remove the stamped case fan grill (hole saw or Dremel tool). Doing so may significantly improve the Freezone’s performance, especially if your case has a relatively restricted grill. If your case has a 120mm rear case fan opening then install the adapter plate with the four mounting screws provided.
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Remove the existing CPU cooler and retention frame. Clean off the old thermal compound with a little Isopropyl alcohol. Set the Chiller/Pump Module on the drive bays so the waterblock can be set into position.
Now its time to install the CPU waterblock. Using the instructions provided in the Installation Guide, select the parts appropriate for your CPU socket style and install the aluminum standoffs. I will be using the Intel LGA775 hardware.
Remove the protective cap from the bottom of the waterblock and set the waterblock on top of the CPU. Carefully install the retention wires with the thumb screws provided. Tighten the screws evenly; a little at a time until they are all fully seated and the waterblock is securely clamped in place.
Next, position the Chiller/Pump Module so the fan lines up with the rear case fan opening and bolt the assembly in place with the four machine screws provided. Be sure the two hoses going to the waterblock don’t get twisted or kinked in the process.
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The Thermal Control Module can be mounted onto any convenient, clean, flat surface inside the PC enclosure. The Installation Guide suggests mounting the TCM to the side of a drive bay may be a good location but each user will have to decide for themselves where the best location is.
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The final step in the installation is connecting all the cables to the TCM.
- 4-pin Molex from PC power supply
- Temperature sensor cable from chiller
- TEC power cable from chiller
- 3-pin Fan cable from chiller
Two additional case fans can be plugged into the TCM fan headers if desired. The TCM will automatically control the fan speed according to CPU load, ambient temperature, and the potentiometer setting.
This are aluminium
This are aluminium waterblocks, and aluminium sucks. Im in process of making a device like this but with 6 TECs all runing at full load at 12V from a separate power supply. On top of that I will use all copper waterblocks for best thermal conductivity. I think I will achieve some crazy results. Will probably have to undervolt TECs if CPU is idling.
Great testing btw, and great reference results.