Conclusion
Performance
Corsair seems to have two spectacular devices on their hands in the 140mm revisions to their Hydro Series™ liquid coolers. Given the performance measured from these coolers when put up against a Swiftech based custom system, any enthusiast would be more than happy with either unit. The fans that ship with the units are also to be commended for the volume of air they can move almost silently.
Pricing
As of February 20, the Corsair Hydro Series H110 Extreme Performance CPU Cooler was available at Newegg.com for $109.99 after instant and mail-in rebates. The cooler was also available from other retailers such as Amazon.com for $129.99 and Corsair for $129.99.
The Corsair Hydro Series H90 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler was available at Newegg.com for $79.99 after instant and mail-in rebates. The cooler was also available from other retailers such as Amazon.com for $99.99 and Corsair for $99.99.
Corsair Hydro Series H110 Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
Corsair Hydro Series H90 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
Conclusion
Before continuing with our final verdict on the H110 and H90 140mm liquid coolers, we would like to take this opportunity to give our friends at Corsair a hearty “Thank You” for giving us the pleasure and opportunity to review their 140mm-based additions to their Hydro Series™ liquid cooler line. Initially, I was reluctant about the abilities of these coolers because of their use of 1/4 inch tubing and barbs and the thickness of both units' radiators. Given the results witnessed in testing, my first impressions couldn't have been more incorrect. Both the H90 and H110 liquid coolers are top of the line units with performance that should impress any water-cooling enthusiast. At the price point, both units are a steal, especially in light of the fact that a high end water cooling radiator can run between $90 to $150 US.
While I found no design faults with either cooler, I would love to see the unit's performance when paired with 3/8 inch barbs and tubing and a thicker radiator. I did find the CPU hold down mechanism to be complex to use and require attention to detail to construct correctly. However, it was a small price to pay for the durability and peformance of the units.
One other thing to note with their design is the risk of galvanic corrosion in the units. Because Corsair uses different metals in the radiator and CPU block, there is a possibility of galvanic corrosion occurring in the system. This is caused when two dissimilar metals are connected via an electrical contact forming a battery type connection. In a liquid cooling system, this occurs when the liquid used becomes conductive because of impurities introduced into the coolant. The corrosion surfaces are corrosion in the copper surface or material build-up on the aluminum surface. Corsair uses a proprietary coolant mixture in the coolers to act as dual-purpose corrosion inhibitor and bio-cide to combat both corrosion and bio buildup.
Strengths
- Sleek flat black and black chromed appearance
- Performance under stock and overclocking conditions
- Durability of tubing
- Build quality
Weaknesses
- Galvanic corrosion potential with mixed-metal aluminum radiator and copper CPU block
- Complex CPU hold down mechanism
Quistion, the H110 should be
Quistion, the H110 should be the king of the closed loop water coolers, why is it not compared with one of the best air cooler like the Noctua NH-D14 or the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2?
We did not have access to
We did not have access to those other closed loop systems at the time of the review. However, the comparison done to a custom loop using the Swiftech Apogee HD water block should give a good feel of the performance in relation to other liquid coolers…
The “Noctua NH-D14” and the
The “Noctua NH-D14” and the “be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2” are both heatpipe air coolers.
The point is to compare high-end water-cooling to high-end air-cooling!
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=34&lng=en&set=2
http://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler/309
Sorry about that. We’ll take
Sorry about that. We'll take that under advisement for the future. But again, at the time of the review, we used the comparison items that we had access to…
This might not be the go-to
This might not be the go-to benchmark without the air comparison.
Agree, as people should be
Agree, as people should be able to compare the to, to make a valid and sound comparison of what type of cooler is the best for them.
High end watercooling my
High end watercooling my ass.
No high end WC’ing costs $100 abouts and comes with weak pumps, tiny hoses and all attached together…
you can’t have “high end watercooling” for less than about $225, which is how much a custom loop at the very least costs about.
Yeah yeah, I mean high end of
Yeah yeah, I mean high end of the shelf water cooling.
My TJ11 with 2 pumps, 1x 560x140x60mm, 1x 280x140x60mm and 2x 180x180mm rads is what you really call high end water cooling.
But the H110 is about as good as it gets, when it comes to closed loop water cooling, so for its class its high end.
Actually, this isn’t even in
Actually, this isn’t even in the “high end” of “off the shelf” WC’ing. lol.
The Swiffy H220 shits all over these. It’s expandible and basically packs a MCP355, but at 4 speed out of 5. It shits all over these.
Though, when a sick custom setup can be had for $200-225, EVEN THAT isn’t worth it.
IDK WTF you need all that shit for though… lol. What exactly are you looking that needs a 560 + 280 + dual 180 rads and TWO pumps? I bet my ass whatever setup you’re running can EASILY be cooled by using just half of all that shit.
That setup sounds pretty stupidly planned and grossly overexaggarated.
i7 3930K@5.1GHz + 4x 5870 2GB
i7 3930K@5.1GHz + 4x 5870 2GB Matrix cards @1.1GHz.
Total of around 900W heat load.
And yeah i could do with only the 560 rad, but why would i save 200 euros on a 1000 euro water cooling set, if my case has space for it.
And the extra rads are not there for extra cooling, they are there to make the hole setup more silent.
And i also don’t need 2 pumps, but its nice to have a backup, plus 4x VGA, 1x CPU, 1x chipset, 2x mem blocks and some rads, give some restriction.
Yeah its overkill so what, i like my TJ11 and all the modding, i could also spend it on my car or so, everyone his hobby.
Why would you save 200 Euros
Why would you save 200 Euros on 1000 Euro WC’ing? Man that’s fucking insane. You’ve absolutely WASTED %20 of the money your spent on your machine for nothing. None at all. Overkilling the wattage capacity is nothing more than idiocricity at it’s best.
And you’re speaking as if 200 Euros is no significant money. I mean, what the FUCK? We’re talking about 200 Euros here…
And it’s not like those extra rads are making your setup more silent. You could have done it properly with HDB fans or downtuned 38mm Nidec’s.
A single, strong pump can pull it off as well as you said. 5870’s are very efficient cards and you can have a single pump plugged into your mobo to Everest monitor it 7/24.
This has nothing to do with hobby. It’s to do with idiocricity, and spending money moronically and pointlessly. You could have spent that pointless 200 Euros you wasted on a Topre keyboard or something, which would have been far more useful than adding some useless, excessive rad.
What you’ve done is no different than the idiots that buy 1200W PSU’s for a pair of 580’s… it’s stupidly overkilling, and is illogical at best. Sigh.
IMHO though, your best bet would be getting rid of those 5870’s with a pair of Sparkle Calibre 680’s or Dual-X 7970’s.
i would advise to steer of
i would advise to steer of from all Sapphire Dual-X series GPUS
from a very bad self experience with 5! of them..
3 7970 Dual-X head Art effects 2 7970 OC with fan rattling
im now in process of Dual-X 7970 total card #6!
infect this was my first & *LAST* ever
“experience” with sapphire.
i will be avoiding them totally in the future.
Oh and, LOL at chipset blocks
Oh and, LOL at chipset blocks and MEMORY BLOCKS? Are you fucking serious man? RAM doesn’t need no water shit. WC’ing RAM is one of the most stupid things to do as it doesn’t do anything other than to restrict your loop. RAM doesn’t need no cooling other than a cheap aluminum heatsink with a bit of air going over it.
The X79 chipset doesn’t need to be WC’ed either.
I bet you’re also running that setup something stupid like dual 1200W PSU’s… LOL
Man whats wrong with you are
Man whats wrong with you are you jealous or so?
I don’t really get your rage over it.
Of course i know i don’t need RAM or chipset water cooling, but it looks cool, and you know, my TJ11 got a big window in the side panel, and when i look in to my case i think hmmm cool.
Just as when i look at a painting on the wall, it gives me a good feeling!
And the extra rads do make my rig run more silent under load, as i can run, OCCT + Furmark, without hearing my rig, but when i turn of the fans of two 180 and 280 rads, i do hear the fan spinning.
And i just looked, and my water cooling is even way more expensive, my setup cost about 1700 euro’s, had not payed real attention to it, as it was build up over time by adding bits and parts now and then.
These are my water cooling parts: https://www.aquatuning.nl/shopping_cart.php/bkey/9966149fc018ce5306354bec95f26faa
(Some parts ware EOL and not in the shop anymore, I have similar parts for those selected)
And for me as a maintenance supervisor on a Norwegian oil-platform i make a bid more the average, and my wife also got a good job, so yeah i wasted a lot of money on my hobby, as so do millions of other people on there hobbies.
And PSU it is a Corsair AX1200, as i knew quad VGA would be a option, why would i need 2 of them.
A Topre keyboard would be a waste for me, as i am still very happy with my +10 year old Logitech.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/kpsurplus_images/e06026999eb782568232cd73d3035b15bffa77d7.JPG
And next month i am gone waist 7000 euros on four water cooled Titans, plus three 30″ monitors.
Why?, because i can afford it, and i like to play games, as i have plenty of time of, because of me 2 on 4 off rotation, and its something i always wanted.
And yeah i am gone get some crap from the boss of the house, but i can properly bribe her with going with her to a spa or so.
But there are also people that put $5000 rims under there car, or have +30 guns and rifles, i put 1700 euro of cooling crap in my PC because i think it looks cool, not because i need it.
There are kids that spend every penny they got there car, i spend a couple of hundred on my rig, because i like playing with water cooling, and still at the end of the year we have more on our accounts then the year before.
And the Swiftech H220
And the Swiftech H220 preforms less then the H110 NZXT Kraken X60.
So you don’t even have your fact straight!
http://www.anandtech.com/show/6716/closing-the-loop-ii-new-liquid-coolers-from-corsair-and-swiftech/4
Thing is, those people spend
Thing is, those people spend their money at last considerably. You, on the other hand, absolutely WASTING it on shit that does NOT matter.
I actually wasn’t raging, I was LOLing and wasting my hate on how silly you throw away your money… look at that shit you posted. All Nickel plated EK blocks… ROFL. Those things are worse than SHIT. They corrode in no time and take whatever is in the loop together with them, just goes to show how clueless you are.
And no, I’m not jealous of your pointless setup. I own a MagiCool Monsta Limited 420, a Kyros HF, a PMP-500 and a pair of Aqua .925 silver GPU blocks with some 6200 RPM Nidec’s going on the Monsta… lol, and it shits ALL over your 1000 Euro, corroding, oxidating giant bag of shit. Doesn’t cost me 1000 Euros either. lol.
If you me, you’d know I’m not jealous of other people’s hardware. I can make them jealous of mine, I own SLC SSD’s that retail $1450 each.
And the fact that you’re fine with that shitty 10 year old scissor Logitech keyboard just goes to show how little you understand about the peripherals that actually DO make a difference and not waste your money pointlessly and make your loop restrictive for no reason. No offense but you come off as a kid that buys shit off his dad’s credit card and likes to show off as much as possible. I mean, WC’ed RAM, seriously? Show me ONE guy who knows what he does that WC’es his RAM. Nobody with two clues about WC’ing does it because there’s no need to even COOL RAM at all, and all WC’ing it is to add extra heat for your loop and make things harder for absolutely nothing.
If you ever used a mechanical keyboard, there’s no fucking way in hell you’d go back to that Logitech. I’m typing on a RealForce 87U TenKeyless right now and it’s a joy to type on this thing. The acquisation force and the release action is so soft it comes as if you’re pressing belly buttons rather than keycaps. Yes, it indeed is THAT better than my G15.
As for that H110 and NZXT X60 “beating” H220, that bench is horse shit.
Check Overclockers bench or some others, the H220 DOES indeed beat all. You don’t know or understand why the H220 is actually better; it’s because it basically has a MCP355 working at 4 speed out of 5, whereas those Asetek/Coolit AIO’s come with fucking weak ass 50 GPM pump that can’t push a single head out of their pressure for their sake.
The fact that it got outdone on that test is because of the fans used, or the test setup or something else. Mind you, the H220 comes with crappy Swiffy Helix fans whereas the H110 comes with basically modified SP120’s, which are much better. Once you put some undervolted Nidec’s or even Akasa Viper’s on it, it’s going to blow the shit out of that H110. Not to mention that the H220 is EXPANDIBLE. You can add a GPU block to it, whereas the Kraken and the H110 are NOT.
Regardless, I disgress. One should either go custom or stick with an air cooler IMHO. AIO’s are nothing more than half assed, cheaply put botchjobs.
I can make them jealous of
I can make them jealous of mine, I own SLC SSD’s that retail $1450 each….. ehhhh ….. ROTFLMAO!
Are you joking, or really serious, because thats even a mutch bigger waste then my cool looking water cooling setup, I have something cool to look at you just have a 2.5″ box that dose not even out preform a Samsung 830 for home use!
Because how the fuck buys SLC SSDs now a days, did you get two 120GB SLC OCZ Deneva 2 R 2.5″ SSDs? LOL @ U again, talk about real ridicules waste of money for home use!
My 830 is just as quick with normal use 20~30K IOPS, and the 64GB whith W8 superfetch cache makes sure it kicks all SSDs ass +90% of the time, when you have disk I/Os.
SLC for Enterprise, good plan, SLC for even heavy home use is just to stupid for words, unless your doing something really really special.
And yeah i had a “Das Keyboard” mechanical keyboard, and it was fine, but i liked all the extra’s i had on my old Logitech, and now my wife uses it, and she likes it as she dose +10x more typing then me, for me the Logitech is all i need, as i don’t do 10 finger typing.
And yeah the old Nickel plated EK blocks ware problematic for some, i had those to, and just send them back and got new one’s from them with better nickel plating method that don’t erode, even do mine ware still fine when i send them back.
And bashing my WC rig is fine, i like the looks of the chipset, RAM and CPU block’s, and all the hoses, it may not be a http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/ rig but it looks far above average.
You calling me a kid, and you could be right when it comes to building my rigs, i let my self lead a bid by my inner kid, and i am not ashamed of it, as everyone that sees my PC is at least looking at the inside for a minute or two, even woman that don’t give a crap about PC, say it looks cool even do they don’t wane have it in there living room! (including my wife)
So yeah you right i could also have worked:
https://www.aquatuning.nl/shopping_cart.php/bkey/5f715df20add05baf1360686a992de30
But whats the fun in that, and things like ram coolers is for case modders, ware its also about looks, and i am one of them.
I actually got those drives
I actually got those drives for $500 each new on eBay and they’re easily worth it.
Why? They got Tantalum caps on them for power back-up. I can use write cache with no worries, or NONE of any sort of worries of losing my data because my drives are power backed-up internally every second.
They 4K write ridiclously well. It takes SECONDS to install my HP cam’s software, which took a few MINUTES on my old P128. And they read damn fast too. They don’t stop for nothing. They just keep on getting faster and faster. It’s incredible. I fill the drive more yet it gets faster on every ATTO bench after the other. The block management is being extremely well done, it got 20GB of it’s 120GB left solely for garbage collection. And a 100 PetaByte endurance on top of it… lol.
And yes, I have THOUSANDS of small files such as Source Mods, F.E.A.R devoloper kit and such, which completely fuck up a regular SSD, which is why I’m using these things. My data is unlike any regular folk’s data. These things are so many small files many regular folks` mind would be blown.
And EK blocks STILL corrode. And not just corrode, they completely fuck up and go as far as getting melted. Just look around and you’ll STILL find MANY threads of EK blocks getting fuxored in the most ludicrous ways possible.
And fuck that million dollar PC shit. The system on my table is more hardcore than any of that shit. None of those “million dollar” machines own the 10.500 RPM Delta 80mm’s or blowers with 72mm pressure or Nidec Ultra-Flo’s that’re blowing out doors on my table right now. LOL.
You’re that “Player-X” guy who used to go around cheating on F.E.A.R servers right? LOL.
Mind you, you started all this shit by mentioning your so called “high end” setup. And let me ask you just this, does ANY of what you wrote has ANYTHING to do with the H110/H90’s of this review?
Tantalum caps, yes and, i
Tantalum caps, yes and, i have no need for it, its even more overkill for me then the 3 extra rads that i have.
“which completely fuck up a regular SSD”
Doubt it, but could be, but even so, that would be for me as the same as having a Ferrari and only driving it true rush hour traffic in Milan!
Whats the point, you try to impress me with something totally useless for me and 99.9% of desktop users!
Fine yours is bigger then mine.
The old nickel did not give me problems, and now the new nickel blocks is the same, and given me no problems at all after 5 years of 24/7 use.
And i come a lot on different water cooling forums, and the problems what you are talking about i don’t hear or see ay of it with the new type nickel blocks.
And 10.500 RPM Delta 80mm, LOL i don’t even wane have those in anywhere in my house, let alone in my PC, 1000 RPM 140mm fans rotating @ 500/750RPM max idle/load is all i need.
Silence is golden!
I have cheated at two games in my life.
With WoW for grind ore, herbs and fishing stuff, as grinding is pain in the nut and just to boring to do.
And for a wile used Quake III a skin ware there ware spikes sticking out 5m or so, and played with that for a week or so, and mean time demanded/lobbied that skins like that ware blocked by PunkBuster.
F.E.A.R. i downloaded from the TPB, and played it for 3~4 hours and was not really my game, like CS and still Q3 and now BF3 better.
ANd yeah i call the X60 and the H110 high end of the shelf closed loop water coolings sets as they are the best that you can get in there class, before you have to go over to custom water cooling loops, that cost a hell of a lot more and are more complicated.
You don’t actually understand
You don’t actually understand what those Tantalum caps do. They aren’t there for nothing. They’re there to flush the data from the drive in case you lose power while you’re writing files and shit goes down. They provide superior reliability over ANY regular consumer SSD except for the Intel 320 and the Comay Venus Pro, both of which have power back up.
And yes, the amount of Source mods I’ve do indeed fuck up a regular SSD. Those things are, as I said before and repeat, SO MANY small files it makes me NEED an insane SSD to still keep on a good performance:
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/8055/p128.jpg
As to your Nickel plated EK’s not giving YOU “any problems”, they’ve FUCKED up on a DOZENS of people. Read this thread:
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=225479
Silence “may be” golden if you’re a pussy ass nigga that can’t stand the noise of a single, completely quiet fan… us real man stand 5500 RPM, 250 CFM PFB1212UHE Delta’s on our rads if that means higher performance, lower temps and better reliability over time. And guess what, I’m not the most insane in this section either. I’ve six Nidec Ultra-Flo 6200 RPM’s going on my Monsta. Some, on the other hand, have twelve or EVEN MORE than 12 insane fans on their rads. Some even STACK Delta’s… I know of a guy that uses FM121’s at full blast only and goes by the rule “if you can’t hear you fans, they aren’t working properly…”. That should say it for you about the people like me. And please don’t go ahead and take that statement serious, it screams sarcasm all over and there’s no way that kind of thing to say would be said serious.
And the fact that you cheated in TWO games, TWICE, just goes to show the “quality” of your character…
first, on that shitty WoW game. (now for God’s sake, don’t come back defending that piece of shit game), and Q3? Are you fucking serious? You cheated on Q3? That just goes to show how much of a fucking piece of shit you are dude. And I’m saying this honestly. Q3 is a hardcore Quakeworld game. Anybody who cheats on that kind of game really deserves to get beaten down.
You’re a good old dumbass and nothing else buddy. I’m offending you right now and I’m doing it ON purpose because that’s what you deserve. You’re very predictable, and act moronically.
As for F.E.A.R, F.E.A.R is more of a SP game than a MP one. It’s SP is arguably one of the VERY best SP experiences of ALL time. F.E.A.R MP really doesn’t live up to it’s SP due to the lack of anti-cheat and the awful amount of cheaters, and the fact that it doesn’t really offer an excellent MP pleasure. Though, it STILL is great. Easily much better than that stupid WoW. F.E.A.R MP requires skills, coordination and good reflexes period. It’s no noob game. F.E.A.R MP is really one of the hardest games to master at.
Neither CS nor BF3 is ANYWHERE is skill-demanding as F.E.A.R MP.
And NO, neither the X60 nor the H110 are “the best” in their class. You don’t know shit about WC’ing, or more precisely, AIO’s and overall system hardware in general.
Those AIO’s come with fucking shitty, WEAK and very UNRELIABLE pumps. The pumps on these things are NOTORIOUS for clicking/rattling and EARLY failure, whereas the H220 comes with a pump that’s VERY similar to the pump in the Apogee HD block, basically a slightly downtuned MCP355. It does indeed fucking BEAT the shit out of those AIO’s.
The only reason the H220 gets beaten by those coolers in that bench is the fans you have on it. It comes with shitty Swiffy Helix fans which are sleeve bearing and BARELY push a significant amount of pressure or CFM. And like I said before and I’ll repeat again, ONCE you put four Akasa Viper or undervolted Nidec’s on it, it can and WILL BLOW THE SHIT out of H110 or X60. Even if you put the same fans on the H110 or X60, they still WON’T perform as good as H220. And if you actually go check out Overclockers.com bench of the H220, you’d see that it BEATS H100i, which is just about as fast as X60.
And the fact that these AIO’s all come with SHITTY ass unreliable pumps, with crappy noise profiles (hence their dense radiator fins), and overall WEAK built is what makes them a NOT-SO-GOOD choice.
And, you can add an extra rad or something to H220. You don’t really understand, do you? H220 is basically a MCP355 + a Swiffy block and a separate 240 rad combined together. You CAN expand it, but you CAN’T expand the X60 or the H110. It’s better in EVERY single way than these AIO’s and, IS the ONLY AIO’s that’s worthwhile. Enough IS fucking enough.
One should either go H220 and swap the fans, or go custom or just get a SOLID air cooler like a TPC-812 and be done with it.
And don’t bother to go off topic again. You’ve already SHIT on enough on the page of this review. How many more times do you need to be told to NOT go off topic?
I know what those Tantalum
I know what those Tantalum caps do, i just dont need them, i cant even remember the last time i had BSOD, or my PC crashed or reset, and my APC 750VA UPS is good for me.
Those caps are for me the same as $300 HDMI cabel when a $5 one will work just fine for me.
Silence “may be” golden if you’re a pussy ass nigga that can’t stand the noise of a single, completely quiet fan… us real man stand 5500 RPM
Fine for you, but i don’t wane feel like i am @work if i am sit in front of my PC, i am happy to spend couple of hundred euros on better and overall quiter cooling.
Don’t need to put my dick on the table to prove i am a man, i am not a Neanderthal.
As to your Nickel plated EK’s not giving YOU “any problems”, they’ve FUCKED up on a DOZENS of people. Read this thread:
Yeah old news, thats a old nickel plated GPU block, the new one’s don’t have that problem, you could have found that out your self if you actually had bothered reading the thread!
Warranty statement: http://www.ekwb.com/news/83/19/
Statement of the new nickel plating method: http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2011/07/28/ek-introduces-electroless-nickel-plating/1
Your just giving out FUD, or have no clue ware you talk about!
just goes to show the “quality” of your character…
In Q3 i did it to hunt guys that used the same mod, in WoW i did it because grinding materials is just mind numming, and i play WoW almost only for the team play, specially the raiding, and did not wane grind 1~2 hours just to afford the repair bills from raiding.
And fine that you like FEAR, i know for sure that Quake 3 Rocket Arena is one of the fastest game mods for any game, and go around the map in less the 25% of the time as during normal game play, if you dont need skills for that i don’t know what dose!
And NO, neither the X60 nor the H110 are “the best” in their class.
Tell me what closed loop system is better, the H220? has just a smaller RAD and in WC, size dose count!
Yeah the pomp is maybe better, but till they come with a H280 or so with a 280mm rad, de X60 and H110 with there 33% extra radiation surface beets the Swiftech set.
You don’t know shit about WC’ing
And bin doing WC for years now, made my first block over 10y ago, shame that the pictures are gone of the old forum after they switched to a new forum.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80797
Hmm as a offshore maintenance and piping supervisor i play with water cooling on scale not comparable with PC water cooling, and you think i know shit about simple PC cooling.
Your just to funny!
or more precisely, AIO’s and overall system hardware in general.
Sure you are right, that i build over the years hundred’s of PCs, as i had my own small one man company in the begin time of PC building, when there was still money to be made in PCs!
And on tweakers, the Nr one tech site in Holland, my reaction average score value is #161 of the 375.000 registered users.
http://tweakers.net/gallery/54579
So my opinion is among the best valued on a top tech website, can you claim the same somewhere???
How many more times do you need to be told to NOT go off topic?
I am the one going off-topic, think your the one doing that a bid more, i just correct your mistakes if you do!
This post is so nonsensical I
This post is so nonsensical I don’t even know where to begin.
But I’ll do, swing away this moron till he flies off my hands… that’s what he deserves. So here it comes… hell yeah baby.
First off, as long as you overclock, NO single system can be %100 stable. Even if you don’t overclock, there isn’t a SINGLE machine out in the World that NEVER gets locked. It’s a law of nature. There is some sort of bug in EVERY single software. No software is flawless, as no human is flawless, as such, you can and WILL encounter a lock up in someway or somehow at some time. And when it happens, there ALWAYS be a chance of losing your data. So what the Tantalum caps do in that case, is, TO, flush the data from the cache/NAND to the drive, so that your data gets saved. For someone that runs a home server off his machine, and overclocks as much as possible, and runs many misc software, this is, personally, a MUST for me. You don’t exactly know or understand my exact personal needs or usage, so you can’t comment shit on my hardware.
Gotta love how you, just yourself, put every single dick you had out of you right on the fucking table with all that nonsensical WC’ing hardware you listed. 1000 Euro watercooling?
You DO realize my 350 dollar setup with those fans blow the shit out of your 1000 Euro EK garbage, right?
Old problem? Read the fucking thread you dumb piece of shit. The problem started in mid 2011, and that thread is from early 2012. The blocks STILL fucking corrode. Look at this and read the goddamn thread:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1740358
So you not only admit cheating, but also admit playing in damn it CHEAT servers? You cheated against people that cheated eh? How great! Talk about ruining the shit out of such great game called Q3. Man you really do deserve a good beating till that pompous, mindless brain of yours gets a single lesson. You cheated multiple times, yet you’re fucking proud of it? You ruined other people’s fun, yet you’re proud of it? Go to hell.
I used to like F.E.A.R, I don’t play it anymore since it’s way too repetitive. And you don’t need to tell me how fast Q3 is, I’m not dumb or ignorant. I play Painkiller MP.
Size does count? What the fuck are you talking about? You DO realize the H110 rad is BARELY any bigger than H220 rad, right? And what the fuck does size matter when you’re cooling an Ivy Bridge chip with a overclocked 100W power consumption? You do realize an Ivy pulls 50W regularly, and about 100 OC’ed, right? It doesn’t even NEED a 240 rad. It can easily do with a double thick 120 rad.
And those 140mm fans push LESS per cubic pressure per inch. The higher the frame of a fan is, the less H20 pressure in water gauge it pushes per surface air in inches. And since these rads ALL have VERY THICK fins, they REQUIRE “strong” fans to get the best performance out of them.
The sole reason the H220 can’t unleash it’s full potential is the SHITTY sleeve bearing cheap Helix fans on it. They’re NO comparison to the Corsair SP fans with directed blades and hydro dynamic bearings, and stronger output. Once you equal the fans (put just as good fans on the H220), it, for the third time I’m saying, can and WILL blow the shit out of H110. Period. Full stop. Fucking enough.
And when you’re comparing these things, the pump IS what matters. Because the pumps on the H110/X60 aren’t only WEAK, but are also UNRELIABLE as fuck. They’re notorious for FAILING in 1-2 years you dumbass. Whereas the H220 comes with a rather reliable, remade MCP355 pump. Those weak pumps can’t push no shit of head pressure, whereas the MCP355 easily pushes 5 TIMES the pressure those weak pumps push.
And did I, AGAIN, mention that the H220 is frigging EXPANDIBLE? You do realize you can add an another rad or something to the H220, right? It’s basically a custom loop in a closed manner. And the H110/X60? Can you EXPAND them? Sigh, sigh. Oh well, I don’t think you’re in any condition to understand shit anymore. You’re spouting more nonsense one after the other, have absolutely no clue what you’re talking about, while expecting to debunk me.
You don’t understand anything about watercooling. You’re just putting all rads on top of each other, expecting your setup to perform and outdo everything else. You’ve wasted 1000 Euro’s this way, got told that you’re doing it absolutely wrong and acting moronically, yet you CONTINUE to show these dumb shit antics. I don’t know what to say anymore, you’re so dumb you have no clue what you’re doing.
And I don’t give a single shit how many years you’ve been WC’ing when you can’t even understand the basics of WC’ing procedures.
And I don’t give a flying fuck about your fucking stupid, pointless “average reaction score” in a site I don’t give a horse’s leg about.
You just correct the mistakes I do? There’s not a single mistake you haven’t done in that post you retard. You’ve started this by “trying” to show off your pointless and grossly overexaggerated, and there isn’t a single nonsense you haven’t spout out left.
Jesus. I need some sort of refreshment, I guess you folks reading this do as well. Here ya go, cheer up a little people, heh.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek_4ADcA_Ik
ROTFLMAO man what a rage in
ROTFLMAO man what a rage in you post, do you have ADHD or so, with your swearing and rage i properly never wane sit next to you in a car!
And yeah the post is from 2012, the block on the other hand is from before the switch, before they change to a different type of nickel plating.
If you cant even understand something that basic, whats the point of any discussion further with you!
This hole last reaction of yours is just one big brain fart, i wonder actually if your not to stupid to own a computer!
You know, the amount of irony
You know, the amount of irony in your posts is so high it’s absurd. You sure isn’t not the other way around?
You might want to buy some grammar books and learn how to spell English words properly before you come on a tech site to comment on.
I can’t understand something so basic? Have you even looked at this, what I posted just in my previous comment?
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1740358
Yeah, I’m sure that poor guy’s 680 block was made in 2011…
Just give it up already pal.
I speak and write Dutch,
I speak and write Dutch, Norwegian and German, and speak English, Swedish, Danish and Italian.
Never had really the need to write perfect English, as i don’t need it for my work reading it is all i need.
And let me say only one ting about the EK blocks, I don’t give a crap what other people problems are with EK blocks, i don’t have any, and they work fine for me.
But then on the other hand I don’t use anti freeze in my loop, ware some to be known to have a high ph value.
Imho even 50 blocks are not considered a problem over all, i think less the 1% of the people have problems with there blocks.
On the other hand average HDD failure with RMA is around 4%, if you can show me there is a bigger problem with EK blocks then with HDDs i will start taking you serious!
There will always be people with problems, dose not mean there is a general problem!
I read daily the Cooling, Overclocking and Casemodding forum sections of that site you don’t give a horse’s leg about.
And among the best case modders from the world come from that shitty little site.
Next to that i come weekly on overclockers.com/forums, and the Bit-Tech forums, and i have not seen a hell of a lot of problems with EK bloks!
Read some of the build logs, and if the EK blocks ware suds a problem as you say, they all would stop using them!
http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_message/39581504#39581504
http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/1513019
http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_message/39541846#39541846
http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/1533400
http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/1444110/last
http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/1494345
http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/1538078
http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/1499949
Or do you think people with these skills would not know if EK blocks are crap?
But then i say again, even so his problems are not my problems, my loop runs just fine with those blocks now for +3 years, and some parts even longer.
But then i just use clear pre-mixed coolant, and noting else, and once a year i flush it with cleaning vinegar, then flush it with distilled water three times, and then put in new pre-mix “Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra”.
Had only problems in the beginning with a copper CPU block, and a aluminum car heating-core i used as a radiator, and i learned quickly the hard way about galvanic corrosion.
Your so called “best” forums
Your so called “best” forums are clueless about these things while EK blocks keep on fucking up on people for NO reason:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038945340
How many more threads and cases do you need to be shown?
http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showpost.php?p=89709&postcount=15
Read her signature, she killed a 560 Ti 448, which came out AFTER the EK fiasco and it still fucked up on her.
And what about those guys with their 680 blocks that fucked up on them? Is it that the guy doesn’t know what he’s doing again? How the fuck can a block become completely getting as far as melted by corrosion in fucking 24 hours? No matter how many metals you combine together, NOTHING will get THAT much complete and utterly fucked up under a single day. It’s solely because EK sucks and blows and their WC’ing products are made out of some really poor quality or QC.
How many more people do you need to be heard about, EVEN after the EK announcement, that’ve STILL ended up with corroding blocks and DEAD peripherals? Are you really that dumb to NOT acknowledge a complete and utterly obvious problem?
Whatever you want to believe in, I don’t give and single shit and let me just tell you that your EK blocks fucking suck shit. My Kyros HF + 925. Silver Aqua blocks are better than ANYTHING EK has EVER released in their entire history… and that should tell how much better Aqua blocks are.
And if you actually go to check the quality or performance of Aqua blocks, you’d EASILY find that the Kyros HF offers higher flow/better temps and IS extremely EASILY built much better than the Supremacy horse shit block, and it, ironically, even costs less.
You need to accept the truth and stop crapping this page further and further. Please.
I would say, lay the Kyros HF
I would say, lay the Kyros HF 925. Silver Aqua blocks and your SSD with those Tantalum caps on the desk, also plug in those 72db 6200 RPM Nidec’s in a 24V power supply, in front of you on your desk, take your dick in your hand and start jerking of on it.
Because you must be loving that stuff or mentally challenged to buy that overpriced and loud crap!
I am happy with what i got, and if i get 2 Titans, i am gone look again what blocks are the best, till then i am not bothered whit that you think that EK is crap in your opinion.
The 5870 EK blocks ware the best at the moment i got them.
And all the blocks i have now works for me fine, and till i get problems with it, or need new one’s, they stay in my loop, for as long as possibly, and i seriously don’t give a crap of what you think of them. :p
Well then let me tell you
Well then let me tell you just this, TITAN is a $550-700 card milked to a most insane and extreme way possible. The magnesium shroud on it does nothing other than to grossly ridicule it’s price. I’d take a Galaxy 680 White/KFA2 680 LTD OC over a TITAN with my eyes closed. Why? It’s only very slightly slower, once heavily OC’ed, just as fast as TITAN, looks much better, has a Volterra VRM, cools better and works quieter. It really is the way to go over a TITAN. And what’s even better is that, it costs half as much as a TITAN…
anyho, yes, I’m this kind of person. I enjoy sticking one of my Ultra-Flo V60E 6200 RPM’s to the back of my PSU because it makes my PSU work much cooler, increase it’s reliability and potential. Yes, I’m a mad man when it comes to this kind of stuff. And I ABSOLUTELY enjoy the propeller plane noise it consistently makes, which is an insane amount of noise many can’t even stand a few seconds for, and can be heard from outside of the door of my house… 🙂
Have a good one…
This site test just about
This site test just about every air cooler on the market or at least the ones of worth testing. They have also started testing these type of coolers as well. http://www.frostytech.com/
Lol – because then nobody
Lol – because then nobody would buy such semi WC – and afaik that corsair H Series is a piece of shit. They will fail on you pretty fast. There are countless reports of leaking systems or of failed pumps – have fun to get your HW replaced by RMA if you overheated or drowned it in water. This review is a total load of bull as it only covers the positive and not the negative aspects of this particular product series.
P.S.:
Feel free to not publish this answer as i would expect it from biased reviewers.
Great review, will try to
Great review, will try to save up for one for my AMD CPU that keeps hitting 70c at load using the sunbeam core contact cooler
Mind you that the CCF is a
Mind you that the CCF is a direct touch heatpipe cooler, so you might want to check out if it’s making contact well, and re-TIM if necessary.
I had one back in the day and even thought a cheap cooler, it wasn’t that bad. It did the job and kept my E6600 cool. It’s not all that well built though you might want to remount it or slap a second fan to it somehow. A second fan would help that cooler.
And well, I wouldn’t suggest these cheap AIO water loops. Just get a TPC-812 and be done with it.
tell me please guys, does
tell me please guys, does corsair h110 fits inside thermaltake armor revo case?