UEFI Features – Advanced and EZ Mode
The following screens detail settings in Advanced Mode on the Boot, Tool, and Exit tabs, as well as screens in EZ Mode.
Boot tab
Boot tab, Boot Priority and Override settings
Tools tab
Tools tab, GPU Post page
Tools tab, ASUS EZ Flash 2 page
Tools tab, ROG SSD Secure Erase page
Tools tab, ASUS Overclocking Profile page
Tools tab, ASUS Overclocking Profile page, Load / Save profile settings
Tools tab, ASUS Overclocking Profile page, Load / Save Profile settings to file
Tools tab, BIOS FlashBack page
Tools tab, ASUS SPD Information page
Exit tab
Exit tab, Save Changes & Reset popup
General Information popup
EZ Tuning Wizard screens
EZ Tuning Wizard, OC tab, Current System Configuration page
EZ Tuning Wizard, OC tab, PC Scenario page
EZ Tuning Wizard, OC tab, Main Cooling System page
EZ Tuning Wizard, OC tab, Estimation Tuning Result page
EZ Tuning Wizard, RAID tab, Enable RAID Mode page
EZ Mode screens
EZ Mode main screen
EZ Mode screen, Boot Menu popup
You appear to have “Courtesy
You appear to have “Courtesy of Gigabyte” dotted around on this article; perhaps you mean “Courtesy of Asus”
You know its Morry that has
You know its Morry that has written this right? We all love him and his work, but he is quite like that grandparent we all have that sometimes puts their shoe in the oven and the milk in the washer.
Thanks for the heads up, its
Thanks for the heads up, its fixed now…
Morry! You magnificent
Morry! You magnificent bastard, I read your article! ~ Derivative quote taken from “Patton” starring Geo. C Scott. 😉
Looks like a good board.
Looks like a good board. Especially now that EK posted a picture of a full coverage monoblock for the Rampage V. Might look into it for an upgrade from an X79 Sabertooth.
Anyone by any chance have an idea why the 2nd card in a crossfire setup would stop being detected in windows after installing Gskill 3333MHz ram?
it *might* be a PCIe voltage
it *might* be a PCIe voltage issue. Try bumping up your chipset related voltages a bit and see if that helps. What speed are you attempting to run the memory at? Could also be that that board cannot maintain stability at spec'd memory speeds with the new DIMMs
It was a client’s PC so I
It was a client’s PC so I don’t have it available anymore. The ram in question had an XMP profile of 3333MHz 1.35V CL16-16-16-36. Wouldn’t always boot at 3333MHz. 3200MHz would work so it was set to that. But I hadn’t thought to check the PCI-E voltage. If I come across the board again I’ll definitely look into that.
The guy was dead set on returning the PC anyways and brought it to me to see if I could get it going. I think the board was just set on making a fool of me.
Better that board than any of
Better that board than any of us! 🙂
Weird, you list “weakness” as
Weird, you list “weakness” as lacking a clear CMOS jumper, but it has a clear CMOS button on the back panel. See your own photo:
https://pcper.com/image/view/51285?return=node%2F62100
Lower left corner just above the ROG connect/USB BIOS Flashback button. It is labeled CLR CMOS
clear CMOS button and clear
clear CMOS button and clear CMOS jumper are different. Jumper can be used to clear all BIOS settings in conjuction with removing the CMOS battery reliably. CMOS button is not as reliable at doing this in practice. The jumper just gives a bit more control over the operation…
I have this board and the
I have this board and the clear CMOS button does exactly as the clear CMOS jumper does on all the other boards I own. It clears the CMOS and resets to default values.
A jumper is nothing more than two pins that when jumpered shorts a circuit, this is what clears the CMOS, it shorts the power to ground.
If you like you can put a DVM on it and test it yourself. They are indeed on in the same.
I have this board and the
I have this board and the clear CMOS button does exactly as the clear CMOS jumper does on all the other boards I own. It clears the CMOS and resets to default values.
A jumper is nothing more than two pins that when jumpered shorts a circuit, this is what clears the CMOS, it shorts the power to ground.
If you like you can put a DVM on it and test it yourself. They are indeed on in the same.
Noctua NH-D15 cooler seems to
Noctua NH-D15 cooler seems to be very close to the graphics card PCB. What non-conductive material would you use inbetween? Or, in your experience, does it even matter?
If you’re concerned when
If you're concerned when using a cooler like that, you could use one of the following (most of which I have used in my many liquid cooled and force-refrigeration-cooled systems):
– duct-tape
– neoprene pad (thin with adhesive on one side)
– conformal coating -> have to be careful with this, not to get any on conductive surfaces as it will insulate them very well
– backplate for the video card
Thank you so much for the
Thank you so much for the reply
I’ll definitely go with the Neoprene pad and GPU backplate solutions
I always wanted a 140mm kinda Noctua CPU cooler because I simply don’t trust even the 1 in a million chance that there’d be a leakage from CPU water cooling, and that that would be my CPU water cooler purchase
Will be this mobo compatible
Will be this mobo compatible with the next 2016-2017 HMC as replacement for DDR memories ? THKS
unknown, but unlikely based
unknown, but unlikely based on previous Intel release cycles…
I own this mobo an its been
I own this mobo an its been nothing but a nightmare for me. It resets on its own. Locks up. BSOD I have changed power supplies done everything I can think of best advise stay away.
please dont tell ppl to stay
please dont tell ppl to stay away from a board that i have and totally love, you just had a bad board which can happen with any board out there, so no dont stay away from thus board as a novice ocer this board is a beauty.